Tuesday, December 15, 2015

Lucky's Lion Hoodie


I wanted to make Lucky's costume this year (since it gave me an excuse to finally buy my sewing machine) and when I found the Make Your Own Lion Hoodie tutorial I knew that I had a winning project.  At least I hoped that I did!  Lions ("yaya") are one of Lucky's favorite animals so I knew he would love being able to dress up like one.  I also wanted a costume that incorporated a hoodie but would still be clear when Lucky decided he was done having the hood up after 5 minutes.


For this costume, I purchased a sweat suit (size 2T) from Kohl's, a brown cotton fat quarter, brown thread (Coats and Clark 100% polyester Color 8960 Chona Brown), some brown and yellow felt and Red Heart Super Saver yarn in 3 colors (Carrot, Gold, Cafe Latte).  I am not a big acrylic fan, but I wanted something that would be machine washable so this costume could (hopefully) last for more than one child.  I selected these colors because they complemented, but didn't match, the sweatshirt.  Since each ball of yarn had almost 200 g, I made Indy's coordinating puppy lion costume first.  There is no way I will use the almost 150 g remaining of each color in this project.


The Lion's Mane Hood

I started by prewashing the cotton fabric and sweat suit.  I'm a novice sewer, but if I am ever going to successfully wash this garment I don't want the woven cotton I'm adding to shrink differently than the knit fabric of the hoodie.  After the wash (machine warm/warm) I pressed out the fabric and prepared to cut it.

The fat quarter measures 18"x21" (pre washing).  This is not quite long enough to match the entire length of the hoodie so I will have to add a seam in the middle.  This shouldn't be so hard, right?  The fat quarter was only $2.50, so while I cut have cut the starting pieces shorter I wanted to give myself plenty of room to work with since I'm not sure how many rows of fringe I'll end up adding.

There are some aspects of the sewing tutorial that I could follow/skip if I wanted to get this done fast, but I want to try to do it properly.  I am going to hem the fabric A) for practice and B) so there aren't unfinished ends unraveling in my Halloween Pictures.


When I went to start cutting I realized that the fat quarter isn't square, so I had to trim off the edges. The hood edge is about 10" long from zipper to tip so I will need at least 23" of fabric.  Since there isn't enough width I'm adding a seam down the middle.  I cut two 6" x 18" strips.  This should be enough fabric for my hoodie.


I was too confident when cutting and butchered it.  (I promise I won't take pictures of cutting in progress every time I have a sewing project, but this is my first time using a rotary cutter.  I love it SO MUCH MORE than just scissors, but there is a learning curve.)


I started by sewing the center seam, since this would need pressing before I hemmed the sides.  I also knew that I would have to make another cut in the fabric so I wanted to wait to do this until after I had sewn my seam.  I'm not yet confident that I'll be able to make perfect 1/4" seems everywhere.

Not a bad 1/2" seam, is it?  

Oh my goodness this looks straight!  I even went back and forth over the edge at the end to finish it off.  Look at me go!  I'm really sewing!  I couldn't tell the difference between the right sides and wrong sides of this fabric, so I just did the best I could and hoped for the best.  You won't really be seeing much of this brown cotton cloth anyway.  

I cut the cloth 12" past the center seam and then pressed it open.  I folded down square corners from each edge and pressed.  This was the hardest part, because there was no measurement involved with the pressing, but I think it is okay in the end.  I am going to leave the back hem open for now until I decide how much fringe I'm going to add.


I can't believe I'm doing this without consulting my book, but I remember from reading it many times how this worked.  Now I just have to stitch these seams down.  (The book would have me fold and press again but I don't think that is necessary for this particular project.)


These first seams of mine aren't particularly straight or prefect, but I am super proud of this so far!!  Now it is going to be time to start adding the fringe.  Yikes!  


The first round of fringe went surprisingly fast.  I'm feeling very proud that I was able to do this so easily, even if I might have to give the fringe a bit of a trim.


I decided to add at least a second row of fringe to make the mane fuller.  Since I still had plenty of yarn and fabric, I decided to add a third row of fringe.  But that is it, Rebecca.  No more sewing fringe!


I sort of like the loop look.  I can't decide if I'm going to cut it to be cohesive with Indy's costume or not.  Maybe I'll baste it on to the sweatshirt and then try it onto Lucky to figure that out.


You can see that the spacing of my rows is not perfectly even, but they still aren't bad considering the amount of (to quote Tim Gunn) flotsum and jetsum that I've been adding to this piece of fabric.  I know at this point that I am going to have to 100% hand sew this onto the jacket hood, but I"m okay with that. The real question is how I'm going to hem the back portion.  I cannot press it closed because the yarn is acrylic and would melt with the heat of an iron.  Pins!  This is where I need pins! I"'m going to pin the raw edge to the second row of fringe and then do a 3/8" seam.  The two ends of the fabric are still approximately the same width, so I think I"ve got a winner here!   I sewed with the RS up so I could keep the fringe out from under the needle easier.

Wrong side of the fringe piece

I probably could have folded over the fabric more, but I'm happy with my strip of fringe.  Now to pin and sew it onto the hoodie!  I did a back stitch to attach the fringe strip to the hoodie.  This was hand work, but it went much faster than I expected.


In one evening I EASILY finished the fringe strip for the hoodie.  I now need to pin it onto the hoodie itself and sew it onto the hood.  Next, I'll try it on Lucky and decide whether to keep the fringe loopy or to snip them into pieces like Indy's.


I may have needed to bribe Lucky to keep the hood up, but it is still 90 degrees outside every day so even in our air conditioned home he was not thrilled by the idea of more layers.  Lucky has also recently figured out zippers so it is possible that he will figure out entirely how to take this costume off himself.  


The hoodie looks amazing with the hood up, but with some facepaint Lucky will also look very much like a lion with the hood down.



Wrists and Ankles

I have one 7"x17" big piece of brown fabric left.  I cut four 1.5" strips and then pressed down approximate 3/8" hems on three sides.  Each of these pieces are going to be like a ribbon I'll sew some yarn onto.  Each ribbon is about 5/8" wide. These are all much longer than I'll need but I can cut and hem the end when I get to where I need to go.  I see some of this as an exercise in sewing on my machine.


I should have folded down the ends before pressing the sides.  Now if I press down an end it looks a little wonky.  Thankfully these will be mostly covered with yarn!

After I went through the trouble to make these thin ribbons, I realized that I wanted to see if I could make a true fringe ribbon by sewing the yarn only to itself and not using any fabric to help.  I think it would be easier (and cleaner) if I were able to just sew the yarn fringe directly onto the cuffs of the costume.


It's working!  The yarn is going through the machine and I"m getting a garland that is just stitched to itself.  Wahoo!  Now I can take this long yarn garland/ribbon thing I'm making and directly stitch that to the cuffs of Luckys' costume.  This is going to be so much cleaner than if I had attached the yarn to the fabric itself.


While making the garland I realized that I hsould have measured the cuffs first to know how much I needed, but I was having fun watching project runway anyway so I just kept going and kept going.  I have plenty of yarn, after all, and what else am I going to do with all of this acrylic?


I pinned one layer of the fringe edging of each cuff and the tail and then hand stitched them with a backstitch to the cuffs.  Looking at how the fringe hands I was happy with one layer.

See how the fringe hangs?  

Ears

I cut out four pieces from brown felt and two pieces of yellow for the ears out of felt.  for the tail, I cut two 1.25 inch strips along the long end of the piece of felt.


I top stitched the inner ear onto one piece of brown felt and then top stitched the two pieces of brown felt together with RS out.  I think that I'd like the visible border and the felt will have enough stiffness that the ears probably won't need any stuffing to stay upright. I sewed on the slowest setting, this is my first time sewing around curves with this machine and I didn't want to have to rip anything out.


Attaching the ears was harder than I had expected.  Maybe it is because the felt is so stiff or there is just so much mane.  I was able to attach them in the blank space between the first and second row of fringe.



The mane is so exuberant that you can barely see the ears, but we'll see how it looks on the toddler.  It was super cute without ears to begin with, so I'm not that worried.  I should have made them larger, but I don't feel like going back now.  (Well, I could go back and recut them, but I don't want to!)

Tail

I didn't want to sew the tail perminantly onto the sweatshirt because I was concerned that it would freak Lucky out.  I had some sew on velcro in my stash (7/8", 2.2 cm) and I machine stiched the rough edge to end of one of the tail strips.  I'll hand stitch the soft velcro piece to the inside of the back sweatshirt hem.



Next, I top stitched the two pieces of felt together on all 4 sides


Finally, I hand sewed one rows of the yarn fringe to the bottom of the tail.  I thought about adding more fringe but once I saw it hang I loved the tiny little puff of fringe.


I stitched the soft velcro piece to the back top of the inside hem in the center back of the sweat shirt.  I didn't stitch through both layers so you wouldn't see any stitches on the right side of the shirt.

Lucky in his costume!

Finally the costume is completed!

Indy's free puppy lion snood knitting pattern was designed by ChemKnits!

I don't have any face paint yet, but don't Lucky and Indy make a fantastic pair?


When attempting to get some photos I got a lot of lion snuggles.


This costume was a success!  Now we just have to hope that I can convince Lucky to keep it on at Halloween.  I'm not worried about the hood coming off, that was part of the design.  Lucky is now obsessed with zippers and I'm sure he can figure out how to take the jacket completely off.


Making my own Halloween costumes isn't so expensive when you look at the materials that went into the costume, but if you incorporate the cost of the sewing machine then it starts being less economical.  Thankfully I really wanted my Janome 8077 anyway, this was just the excuse to bite the bullet.  I can't wait to try something a little more involved next year!


Project started 9.4.2015

Friday, December 11, 2015

Entrelac 2: New Techniques for Interlace Knitting

I've only completed a few Entrelac projects over the years.  I love this technique of constructing an object out of interconnected squares, it isn't as hard as it looks.  While I've seen many projects that are lovely, I haven't ever seen any subtle entrelac projects... until now.  I received the book Entrelac 2: New Techniques for Interlace Knitting by Rosemary Drysdale as part of my Vogue Knitting Live 2014 admission.   This sequel shares new ways to do this technique AND multiple patterns that subtly take advantage of this basketweave.

I shouldn't be surprised with the idea of putting other types of stitch patterns inside an entrelac square.  I learned in my cable design class how cool it is when you cable lace and ribbing, why wouldn't it be just as cool to do this with entrelac?

This book starts out with an introduction on how to start knitting entrelac.  The stitch patterns are divided into six sections: Basics, Beading, Cables, Lace, Buttonholes, and Triangles.  I disagree with the method Drysdale uses to bead (putting all beads on the yarn in advance), but this is really a matter of preference.  Otherwise I think her tutorials are pretty helpful.   I am much more intrigued by doing entrelac with cables and lace, these provide a whole new level of design to a garment.

When I got to the end of Triangles, I expected to move into the patterns but instead I found myself in a "Beyond the Basics" section.  Here we are exploring Four Star, Five Star, Six Star, Zig Zag and Braid Coil type configurations of entrelac.  Suddenly I am seeing some swatches that really excite me as you go beyond stockinette in these configurations.  It is hard to not think of fun tams when you're going through the 6 star configurations.

In Chapter 3 we hit the projects.  There is a variety of patterns from scarves and hats to sweaters and pillows.  I LOVE the Color Block Mohair Tee.  This is a really elegant two tone sweater with a subtle entrelac top and then stockinette body.  The Pretty Patchwork Tunic has huge entrelac squares all over the main body of the sweater.  I've never seen this technique look so refined as it looks in these two garments.  The Shades of Gray Pillows have an unfortunate title, but are actually really pretty and modern.  I wouldn't mind having some of these on my sofa, and they are a fun way to play around with the techniques.  I almost did a double take with the Aran Poncho.  This garment has entrelac cables on the front that are set in a way you almost wouldn't notice them as squares, you would think that magic took over the cables for them to run on a bias.  Finally, I like how the Slouchy Striped Hat combines colorwork and entrelac - stripes travel through the entire hat that really highlight the entrelac.

I'm not sure whether I would have purchased this book if it weren't given to me for free, but now that I have it I'm happy that it is in my library.  I'm excited to play more with entrelac and maybe try to incorporate it into some of my own designs.  If you get a chance to see this book at your local library I highly recommend you take a peek!

Monday, December 7, 2015

A Newborn Dino Cape

Before Lucky (then dubbed Chirphead) was born, I debated between a whale themed nursery or a dinosaur themed nursery.  I ended up designing a pretty awesome under the sea themed nursery for Lucky, sidelining the dinosaur theme for a while.  Before finding out the sex of my second child I knew that I would make him or her a dinosaur themed room.  Aren't I proof enough that girls can love dinosaurs, too?  We selected a green color for the walls with this theme in mind, even though I didn't even know I was pregnant at the time we made our color selections.  In light of BOOGALOO's nursery theme, I wanted to incorporate some dinosaurs into his newborn photoshoot.  When I found the following free crochet pattern for a dino hat with a cape I knew that I found a winner.


This design isn't really functional as a winter hat as much as it is a photo prop.  I have been known to create photo props for my children (and dog!) so I was more than up for the challenge.  I knew that I wanted the base of the hat to be green with purple accents, but since my color cards were still packed up when I was making a KnitPicks order I selected two purple shades to test out.


The colors are a little more pink than I had wanted, but I do like the contrast with the green and will make for a vibrant photo.  In the end I selected Everglade Heather (green - 28.4 g, 62 yards) and Columbine (pinkish purple - 12.3 g, 27 yards) and left Amethyst Heather to the side.  I liked the colobine was so vibrant.

The owl hat that Lucky (and many other of his friends) wore on his newborn photoshoot was crocheted on a size H hook and had 40 stitches around.  This hat will be 42 sts around and uses a G hook.  I think I'll go with G since that is what the pattern calls for, that is if I have a G hook (4.0 mm) in my stash.  I was a little concerned because the owl hat had 9 DC rounds whereas this hat only has 8.  After I finish the 8th round I'll measure and see if I need to add another round.  (I think the owl hat is back in my possession now so I can double check against that.)

When I'm crocheting in the round I don't consider any chains to count as DC's.  I therefore started my magic cricle with 12 dc's and then added a DC to replace the chain throughout the pattern.


After 8 rounds the hat is a but short on my model, Dede. When compared to the 9 row owl newborn hat that fit Lucky perfectly at 1 week I know for sure that I want to add a 9th row.


After finishing the 9th row (with my cell phone for a sense of scale), I moved on to the cape following the pattern instructions.  


I'm not that good with straight crocheting.  I did my chain 3, and then in the next sttich started the 21 dc's.  But when I turned, I did the Ch3 and then the DC in the next stitch.  This didn't quite look right, so I ripped back to do a DC in the same stitch as the ch3 at the beginning.  (Otherwise I'd be decreasing too fast).


I really dont love the skipping of the last stitch. It is giving steps to the cape rather than a gentle slope like in the pattern sample.  I ripped back again and decided to do a decrease for the last stitch in the round. 


Much better.  The cape looks so much more streamlined!


The fit of the cape on Dede is a little wonky, but he is a stuffed dog and not a newborn human.  A newborn's head won't be so up so I think the cape will fall better.  Plus I haven't blocked or added the school border yet.  



There is a danger to using your toddler's favorite toy as a photo prop.  Lucky fell in love with this dino cape and kept stealing it to put on Dede!  He would then run off with the pair so I had to stop trying to take any pictures while he was awake.  



Most SC borders I do are in the same color as the hat, so I was a little worried that my technique might look strange.  I think I did a reasonable 


I am a little concerned that the green and purple are so close in tone that a gray scale image won't show any contrast.  But then I remember that in Photoshop you can convert colors in a way to preserve some contrast.  I haven't done this since my class, but maybe I can figure that out again.  By reducing the amount of magenta in the black to white conversion I was able to make the magenta look like a darker hue.  Cool, right?  

Before Photoshop
After Photoshop

I took a mini break between the SC border and making the little spines for this cape.  I just couldn't focus on making 9+ little shapes while Lucky was running around.  Once I was able to find the time to sit down and craft these shapes came out really quickly and super cute.

Spines from left to right, 1 large, 2 medium and 1 small

I ended up making 7 large, 2 medium and 1 small dorsal plate.  I started by placing the plate on the top center of the head first and then working towards the front.  This was to help me get the spacing right and to make sure I was on the center plane. And then, I had about 10 million ends to weave in.


I'm thrilled with how this came out!  This is an adorable little photoshoot prop from a free pattern.  What fun!


Dede (Lucky's favorite stuffed animal) is my model for most of the newborn items I create.  I cannot wait to show you this photo prop modeled by my little boy!

Friday, December 4, 2015

Attack of the Creepers Hat - A Free Knitting Pattern!


Sssssssss.... KaBoom!  Here is a fun simple hat design for the Minecraft lover in your life.  I personally like to play Minecraft on peaceful mode so I don't have to worry about creepers sneaking up on me.  I love the creativity and unlimited nature of the sandbox game.


I wanted a special yarn for this project.  Creepers have a mottled green exterior, so I overdyed some KnitPicks Wool of the Andes worsted weight yarn in Jalapeno green to help me get this pixellated quality to my knitting (see the bottom of this pattern post for the video of me dyeing the yarn!)


Materials
  • Worsted weight yarn in Black (MC - 42.5 g, 92 yards) and green (CC - 12 g, 27 yards).  The sample was knit using KnitPicks Wool of the Andes worsted weight yarn in Coal and Overdyed Jalapeno green (see the end of this post for the dyeing tutorial). 
  • US size 6 (4.0 mm) circular knitting needles with a flexible cable for the magic loop or double pointed needles.  
  • Gauge - 11 sts/2"; 7 rows/1" over stockinette
  • Finished Size - Adult Small (18" circumference, 8.25" brim to crown).

Abbreviations used in this pattern
  • K - knit
  • P - purl
  • K2tog - Knit two stitches together, decreasing 1 stitch
  • Sts - stitches
  • dpn - double pointed needles
  • MC - main color
  • CC - contrasting color

The Creeper Knitting Chart (First shared on another of my blogs, Knitting Project of the Day.)

10x10 stitches

The Pattern - The Attack of the Creepers Hat is knit in the round from the bottom up and has stranded colorwork for the creeper pattern around the brim.  Wrap the carried yarn around the working yarn to minimize the length of floats when necessary.  
  • With MC, cast on 96 stitches.  If using dpn's, arrange evenly on 4 needles. Join to knit in the round, taking care to not twist your stitches.
  • Knit in 2x2 ribbing (*K2, P2* around) for 7 rounds or until the piece measures ~1 inch from the cast on edge.  
  • Next Round: K around in MC
  • Colorwork round:  K1 MC, Knit 10 sts of the creeper chart starting at the bottom row #1, reading the chart from right to left.  *K2 MC, Knit creeper chart* until last stitch, K1 MC.  The creeper chart will be worked 8 times with two MC stitches separating each creeper.  
  • Continue the colorwork rounds until all 10 rows of the creeper charts have been knit.  
  • Knit 22 rounds MC or until the hat measures 6" from the cast on edge. 
  • Begin Crown Decreases (with optional striping pattern):
    • Switch to CC: *K10, K2tog* around (88 sts)
    • K around 
    • *K9, K2tog* around (80 sts)
    • Switch to MC and K around.
    • *K8, K2tog* around (72 sts)
    • K around
    • Switch to CC: *K7, K2tog* around (64 sts)
    • K around
    • *K6, K2tog* around (56 sts)  Break CC
    • Switch to MC and K around
    • *K5, K2tog* around (48 sts)
    • K around
    • *K4, K2tog* around (40 sts)
    • K around 
    • *K3, K2tog* around (32 sts)
    • K around
    • *K2, K2tog* around (24 sts)
    • K around
    • *K1, K2tog* around (16 sts)
    • K around
    • *K2tog* around (8 sts)
  • Break yarn and pull through remaining stitches.  Weave in any loose ends and block if desired.  Put on the hat and sneak up on your friends hissing!


Dyeing the Green Yarn
I wound the yarn into a skein and handpainted the yarn with brown, black, yellow and green food coloring to get a mottled effect.  For more details, check out the following dyeing video.


This hat is knit as an Adult Small so it would be appropriate for a young teen.  It is a bit too big for a 2 year old toddler, but Lucky needed to try out the hat!  (Plus he makes a cameo in the above video... make sure you check it out!)  


I've been meaning to create this hat for such a long time.  I'm so happy that I finally got it finished in time for the holidays!

These knitting pattern was created by ChemKnits for your personal or charity use. You are not to sell, distribute or reprint this pattern without the permission of ChemKnits. © 2015 ChemKnits